Application Instructions

VINYL OR FOIL DECAL LOGO APPLICATION INSTRUCTIONS

IMPORTANT: This is a peel and stick decal (sticker). It may be made of foil or vinyl but, the application process is the same for both. The decal has a clear transfer film over the top that is used to transfer the logo where you want to place it. Do not peel off the transfer film until the last step, after you have the logo where you want it. 

HOW TO APPLY:

STEP 1. Flip your new decal face down. Take a credit card or squeegee and sweep across the back of the decal with firm pressure. Basically pressing the logo into the transfer film so it peels off easier. 

STEP 2.  Clean your headstock face or pedal enclosure with mild rubbing alcohol to remove any dust or oils. Use a dust free, lint free cloth to dry it off.

STEP 3. Peel the backing off with the decal facing down. I prefer to peel up the backing then lay it over on top of itself, and while holding the transfer film, I peel the backing at a steep angle across the decal. If the logo tries to stick to the backing, lay the backing back down in that spot and try to peel it again.

STEP 4. Once the transfer film is removed, being careful not to allow it to stick to itself, line it up on the headstock where you want it and stick it down on one edge. Using a squeegee, sweep across the decal pressing it into place onto the headstock.

STEP 5.  Now, peel the transfer tape off at a steep angle across the logo face very slowly. Use consistent tension when peeling. If any of the logo does not release from the transfer film, stick it back down and sweep across that part with a squeegee again. It should release then. 

You are now done unless you plan to clear coat the logo. These decals can be cleared over, but it has to be done correctly by someone experienced doing it.

I am not responsible for decals that are damaged due to clear coating issues, or the inability to apply them correctly.

Thank you so very much again for allowing me to be a part of your restoration. If you have any questions, don’t hesitate to reach out to me at guitar.restore@yahoo.com or at www.guitar-restore.com

Thank you!

Waterslide Decal Application:

NOTE: If your decal has a matte look to it, it is a laser printed decal and it does not have any clear coat on it. These decals are melted into the paper and do not require a sealer coat. This keeps them very thin. It will scratch however and should still be handled with care. If you wipe the decal too much during application, you could possibly remove the logo image.

STEPS:

1)  Place decal into a warm water bath for about 5-10 seconds.

2)  Remove for the water bath and place on a paper towel for about 10-15 seconds. At this point the adhesive should release so it slides easily on the backing. If it does not slide easily, place it back into the water for 2-3 seconds and remove. It should release now.

3)  Dab some of the water on the headstock or pedal enclosure where you plan to place the decal. Then placing the edge of the decal and backing onto the headstock face or pedal, slide the logo off the backing and into the spot you want it.

4)  Do not wipe the decal once you have it where you want it. You want to lightly press the water out with your cloth or use a small wet paintbrush. If you wipe over it, you could possibly wipe off the ink, crack it, or stretch it distorting the image. 

5)  Once the decal has dried and all water is removed, you can brush the edges of the waterslide film with decal on a small paintbrush to dissolve the edges a bit for clear coating.

Now you are set to clear coat your decal once dried.

NOTE:

You can use nitrocellulose with these without issue. Just be sure to use several dustcoats allowing each coat to dry before hammering it with heavy coats. If you go too heavy, you can melt the material. So be careful.

Clear coating and how I do it:

Be sure to lay a few layers of clear before applying or the decal will appear hazy. Do not apply to raw wood. Once I have laid down several dustcoats, and the clear has dried, I begin to knock the edges down with 800 grit wet sand paper and a block. Sand very lightly and keep the paper clean at all times. Then move to 1000 grit until your headstock is completely matte. Any shiny spots means you have an area that is not level. Wet sand with 1000 until those are gone. Then move to 1500 grit and 2000 grit (or 2500 grit if inclined to keep it going). After this, you can polish with a medium compound then a fine compound. Then wax and buff out. 

Now you can enjoy your hard work! Thank you for allowing me to be a part of your restoration! If you have any questions whatsoever, please don’t hesitate to contact me at guitar.restore@yahoo.com or www.guitar-restore.com. Thank you!

Color Over Foil Peel & Stick

These decals are not clear coated unless specified and will scratch easily. Please handle with care when peeling from the backing. I am not responsible for clearcoating errors.

These are simple peel and stick decals. They can be clearcoated with whatever clear you prefer. Poly lacquer dries and cures faster than nitro, so that is what I suggest.

I always clearcoat these decals while still on the backing, but you can do it however you like. If you clear it while on the original backing, just know when you peel it off, it may have clearcoat skin around the edges of the decal that will have to be removed with a fresh exacto knife. 

To clearcoat, be sure your can is warm so the clear goes on uniformly. Hold can 12 inches away from the decal and spray evenly with several dust coats. Allow to set up for 10 minutes or so between coats. This decal will not coat like wood, and will appear to pit. That’s why you don’t let it fully cure between coats. On about your 3rd coat, spray a heavy layer and let dry. You should have a nice smooth coat at this point. 

For any questions, don’t hesitate to ask. Thank you so much!

GUITAR BODY GRAPHIC SETS

These guitar graphic sets are cut from thin vinyl for their respective guitar shapes. This being The Strat® shape and the Les Paul® shapes.

That does not mean they are uniformly universal, so please keep this in mind when applying. Adjustments may be needed. Because of this I generally cut these in 2 parts for ease of application. 

APPLICATION:

The graphic sets will be marked front and rear on the transfer film. There will be alignment blocks for each side of the graphic set. These are to be overlaid directly on top of the alignment blocks of the second part of the graphic set. In doing this the graphic should be aligned. Keep in mind if the first part of the graphic isn’t applied straight, the alignment of the second part will be off. These graphics can be cleared over. If the set includes the headstock, it will be clearly marked on the transfer film. Thank you so much.

Vinyl Overlay Decals

These decals are made from vinyl and may have a vinyl or foil logo placed on top of it. This overlay is made to cover the entire headstock in case of a poor repair job, or to just change the look. It is not meant to look like the factory headstock as it is not paint. It is also not a thick, wood laminate. It is a adhesive vinyl.

To Apply:

Carefully peel down the backing paper. Do not remove the transfer film until the very end of these steps. Only expose about 1 inch of the top of the adhesive overlay. This will allow you to align with your headstock without the rest of the overlay sticking. If you stick the overlay down, you can peel it back off carefully as long as you haven’t pressed it into place.

Once you have the overlay aligned with the top of the headstock, stick the overlay down with that 1 inch of exposed adhesive. Now, using a squeegee or credit card, press the decal into place by peeling away the backing as you brush down with the squeegee. Lean the squeegee at about a 30-40 degree angle for better performance. Once the entire overlay has been pressed into place, squeegee sweep across the entire overlay to make sure there are no bubbles. Once this is done, now its time to remove the transfer film. Peel the transfer film at a steep angle slowly across the overlay. Almost or actually flipping it over onto the unpeeled part, and pulling slowly. Do not lift outward as this will pull up on the overlay and stretch it creting bubbles. Once the transfer film is off, if there are any bubbles, you can take a small, sharp needle and tap the bubble. Then you should be able to press the air out and make it flat. 

As I stated, this is not meant to recreate a factory look, it is meant to hide a repair or scratch or just change the look. 

I have never clear coated one of these so I cannot recommend it, but if you decide to, I am not responsible for any problems that may arise. GOOD LUCK!

STOP!

If for any reason this decal is not the  correct size, is defective, or anything that would otherwise cause you to be dissatisfied, Please contact me!

I want to have the chance to make your order right. I do not own every guitar, so I can only go by the measurements my customers give me. Sometimes those measurements are wrong. I am more than happy to fix the measurements so that you are satisfied with your order.

I don’t want your logo to be close, I want it to be right. It only helps my business to put out correct logos for your restoration, and that is my top priority. I appreciate your business and I hope to be your go to for your guitar restoration needs!

Thank you so much. I can be contacted anytime at guitar.restore@yahoo.com or at

www.guitar-restore.com